South Korea 8

(still June 4, evening)

As we walked into the theatre, we walked through a protest. The protest was strange because it was so divided. About a week before our arrival the former South Korean president killed himself. Some feel that it was purely suicide while others believe he was pushed towards the action by political pressure because of the current conflict between North and South Korea. It brings me back to a conversation that a classmate and I had on the bus. Michelle (our DMZ tourguide) made it seem as though almost all South Korean people want to reunite with North Korea, but we don't see how that can ever happen. This protest made us see that the view of North Korea held by South Koreans is much more comlicated, far from black and white.

We kept walking and reached the theatre. After a heavy day, a visit to the theatre was the prefect ending. We watched "Miso."

Just a note about the subway... I would like to know what the media here is telling people about H1N1 (or "swine flu") because each time we step into an enclosed space (subway, elevator, etc.) with folks, they immediately cover their faces and try to share as little air as possible with us...

South Korea 7

(still June 4)

... I have never felt the way I did in Panmunjom before...

There are so many thoughts and feelings and sites and sounds to capture that I don't even know where to start. Being in a room where North and South Korea have met is intimidating. We saw the line down the middle of the table marking the MDL (Military Demarcation Line, or, THE BORDER) and realized as we gathered around that table that we were, by all literal and legal standards, in communist North Korea.

After that we moved to an observation area where the North Korean main building was fully visible (along with the guard on the front steps). We were free to take pictures there, and I (like every other tourist) took advantage. As I zoomed in, however, I saw that the North Korean guard had grabbed his binoculars and was glaring at me. The tour guide assured us that this is quite normal, but it took every ounce of my strength to force each small breath out of my chest.

As we continued from site to site we were accompanied by a U.S. soldier (in my journal I named him, but I will leave him unnamed here). I was raised in a family that thanked soldiers and I never knew how I felt about the practice. Just the presence of this soldier put me at ease. As Michelle told us that the other side of the Bridge of No Return held heavily armed North Korean soldiers, I was thankful for that U.S. soldier and I thanked him with each thanks that I had not uttered before to a soldier. The Bridge was the place that once held P.o.W.s from both North and South Korea who were being returned. As they stood on the bridge, they were given the chance to choose the side they would like to return to but warned that once they chose they could never go back.

Above all of these feelings, though, I was just kept breathless (and not in the good way) knowing that mere feet from where I stood were landmines. The frail North Korean dictator was no longer a frail old man who suffered a stroke in my mind but a man who brainwashes and manipulates children in North Korea to learn about his childhood before they learn basic hygiene. In school, the math lessons that North Korean children read are on paper so cheap that most children don't learn basic addition because of the faded figures and torn pages but can cleary read the quotes of their "father," the dictator, on high quality and expensive paper. The portrait of this leader painted in my mind by the U.S. media was replaced by the image held by many South Korean people; a man who separated families and cultures and strikes fear into the hearts of many...

... many more emotions cannot be written. The only thing I though on the bus going back to Seoul was how glad I was to be driving south instead of north.

South Korea 6

June 4

It is strange to hear a South Korean citizen say, "Technically we are still at war." Michelle (her Christian name) uttered that phrase on the way to Mt. Odu Unification Observatory. So far today has been just strange emotionally... to want to learn about this conflict but to be so intimidated by the agenda of the day. We will see what Panmunjom holds...

South Korea 5

June 3

What a long day today was!! Starting out at Dunkin Donuts I realized just how strange it must be to be a resident of Seoul going about your daily life and run into 11 Americans who don't really understand the public transportation.

The common theme of today was getting recognized for being different. I have never really been in that situation. While we visited the King's Palace (NAME GOES HERE), the elementary students were eager to try their English out on us. It was generally fun. They would yell "WHERE ARE YOU FROM?!"

The sensory experiences I have had today are noteworthy. I have enjoyed the smell of incense from the Buddhist temple and the first bite of kimchi. Everyone says that it is an acquired taste. I will be the judge of that...

I can't keep my eyes open anymore and will go to bed... Here are other things we experienced today.

- Korean Methodist University

- McDonald's

- Tea House

- Shopping/dinner

South Korea 4

June 2, 10:30 pm

After getting through customs and exchanging some money (dollars to won), we called a cab and got on our way into Seoul. I was amazed at how much English I saw written on signs and buildings. As we rode in silence a bit in the cab, we were cautious about trying out the little Korean we knew. Our cabdrive was brave and broke the silence. It was not much, but it was enough to put us each at ease.

It is odd to drive into a city at night. you cannot see any landscape (which was hard for me, knowing we were on a bridge but not seeing the water), and when the city lights hit you all at once, you cannot do anything but stare out the window with your mouth hanging open. I really am a small town girl...

We finally reached the Centennial Center and it was quiet, which is all this weary traveler needed. I just don't know if I can get used to this whole bathroom slippers thing.

South Korea 3

June 2 (somewhere around 3pm)

Landed in Tokyo! I am mostly excited about being able to check another continent off of my list. Other than that, it is hard to gauge anything about Japan other than how lovely our terminal is. On to Seoul!!

South Korea 2

still June 1

We are flying somehwere over the Bering Sea. Collectively, we tried to figure out what time it is in Ohio and also in Seoul. It is a strange feeling, knowingthat time (for all intensive purposes) does not exist. Also, as a few of us grow restless on the flight, we talk about how this is all about control. It is hard to let go of control when it is so freely given (or taken) in everyday life. I am guessing this is the first of many times I will have to learn this (not only on this trip).